Tisane: A TEA-LICIOUS

While the term "fusion" in the restaurant scene usually refers to a mix of cuisines, I've recently discovered a new spot that exemplifies a different kind of fusion. Tisane is listed in the Yellow Pages under the "Coffeehouse" section, and rightfully so, as it boasts a full range of espresso and coffee beverages, as well as over 80 kind of teas. However, Tisane isn't just a place to get a caffeine fix. It's also a great spot for a martini, a few appetizers, or a full meal. The cozy setting and modest prices make it a great midweek spot to take a break from schoolwork. Occupying a spot between strip malls along Farmington Ave., Tisane is easy to miss if you're not looking carefully. It's a small place, and at night there are no lighted signs that indicate its presence. Once you find it, you'll probably be struck at how out-of-place it seems. The exterior assumes a bohemian, Asian-inspired dcor, which does not keep in tune with the neon lights of the surrounding stores. However, despite the apparent oddities, I realized as I stepped inside that this kind of place is exactly what Hartford needs. It's a very college-friendly place; I noticed groups of students gathered at a few of the fireside tables. Some were there to have a drink, while some were doing group projects. Tisane offers an atmosphere that appeals to both activities.

Entering from the front door, a long coffee bar greets the customers, as those who already have their drinks perch on stools that line the perimeter of the room. The bar offers all the standard varieties of java and tea, as well as tempting baked goods. At first glance, it seems to be just another coffee bar. However, walk past this entrance area, and you'll find a setting much more comfortable than that at Starbucks. Big, plush chairs are grouped around small tables, and a couch lines one wall. However, the fireplace functions as the center of the room, which adds warmth that makes it easy to spend a few hours here. It certainly beats a sterile dorm room or the fluorescent lighting of the coffee bar in the library.

No matter your reason for hanging out at Tisane, they have both the food and drink to satisfy your needs. A large latte and a brownie make a great accompaniment to studying for a test, while a mug of green tea may help calm the nerves of the student editing a paper. However, this is not to say that Tisane's atmosphere is only conducive to hardworking students. It's also a comfortable location for a study break. Tisane's vodkatini list includes 20 martinis that appear on most other trendy drink lists: Purple Haze, Sour Apple, and Cosmopolitan. They offer a choice of many types of vodka, including a few "premium" labels, a rather pleasant surprise considering the size of the place. They also offer classic gin martinis, though the selection is much less extensive. However, the reason to try Tisane's version of a vodkatini (yes, they do make a point to differentiate between a classic and vodka martini) is their list of Martea-nis. Perhaps tea, especially herbal tea, seems like an odd pairing with vodka, but it works beautifully. The green tea martea-ni is crisp and light, with definite hints of citrus. Its accompaniment, candied ginger, offers a sweet Asian accessory to a classically American drink. The Chai Martea-ni is also good, made with vanilla vodka and hints of cinnamon. The bartenders make rather stiff drinks, though, so pace yourself if you're driving. At $7.50 apiece, you certainly don't save money by drinking here, but the price of food makes a meal less of a splurge.

The menu was introduced just recently, and it seems that the kitchen hasn't quite gauged how much of each item to keep stocked. Despite a tempting list of both cheese and chocolate fondues, none were available the night we ate there. This was unfortunate, because it's not often that you find a place with fondue that won't deplete your wallet. However, we made do with the remainder of the list, which was rather substantial as it was. Many of the appetizers could actually make a meal in themselves. Pot-stickers, available with either turkey or vegetables, are steamed and seared, then served with ponzu sauce. They're not too greasy, which is a nice change from the carry-out variety. A crusted Brie plate arrives with a port wine-cherry sauce and bread, a decadent indulgence for only eight dollars. Other options include skewers, which come in the form of chicken, beef, shrimp, or tofu. Can't decide? Order a sampler platter, which includes wontons, pot-stickers, spring rolls, and skewers. For only fourteen dollars, it's a good plate to share among friends. The Spring Rolls were the only disappointment. Though light, they were practically tasteless because the only items stuffed inside the rice paper were julienned cucumbers, carrots, and sprouts. Though the Thai peanut sauce might have offered a nice accompaniment to a heftier dish, the rolls were just too delicate to tolerate the heaviness of it.

Tisane also offers a variety of salads, most of which average around seven dollars. They range from the standard greens-tomato-cucumber mix with vinaigrette to a Caesar with tomatoes to a spinach-apple-bacon salad accompanied by blue cheese. Chicken, shrimp, tuna, or tofu can be added to any salad for around three dollars extra. A variety of sandwiches and flatbreads offer a slightly more substantial meal and include such options as chicken Caesar, turkey bacon, or a comforting grilled peanut butter sandwich with bananas, honey and bacon. These also average around seven dollars, which is only a little more than the sandwiches from the Bistro.

Those coming for heartier fare are also in luck. A few large plates, such as the Pad Thai and Kung Pao plate, available with chicken, beef, shrimp or tofu, adopt Asian flavors. Jamaican chicken arrives with plantain chips, while a grilled tuna steak adheres to the modern American food trends. Sometimes, though, especially in this kind of cozy atmosphere, comfort food is necessary. For this craving, there's beef stroganoff and macaroni and cheese. In any event, all palates can be satisfied.